SILKY SUZHOU

You will recall from a previous post that from early in Chinese history, the Emperors understood that travel and transport from west to east in this huge country was easily facilitated along the three great rivers; but travelling overland from Beijing to the south of China was very difficult and time consuming. The grand idea of a canal running north to south intersecting with these east-west rivers was devised and ruthlessly implemented. The Grand Canal opened up the land for agriculture, transport and communication and towns developed along its length and breadth. Suzhou was one such small settlement that benefited from this development.

We first visited Suzhou, which dates back to 514 BCE, about twenty years ago on a bus tour out of Shanghai which is only 80 km to the south east. At that time, the highways were just being constructed and were being used only by trucks and taxis. Almost no one owned cars. We visited an operating silk factory, porcelain markets and the site of the burial place of an emperor which was kept secret by slaying all of the workers immediately after they had completed the location. We also visited the Lingering Gardens at that time and once again they are on this itinerary.

Suzhou has grown to a major modern city since that time. A visit to the silk ‘factory’ was similar to our visit to the jade ‘factory’ - more a demonstration of the process and then a hard sell of the products, all of which is standard practice anywhere one travels in the world. Most Aussie kids have had a box of silkworms at one time or another and many homes used to have a mulberry tree. Not sure whether that happens so much today. Silk of course is a wonderful product and very expensive in all its woven forms. M bought some silk socks!

A half hour cruise along one of the many side-canals of the Great Canal took us past the traditional old homes that somehow remain upright on foundations not even the Dodgy Brothers would take credit for. Nevertheless, the Government has allowed people to stay in these homes rent free provided they maintain them in their original condition (sort of ‘heritage listed’). We also take a walk among the streets where the residents sell all manner of merchandise. Still, the weather remains hot and humid. M gives in and buys a large Chinese fan. Finally, we leave Suzhou for our overnight stay in Hangzhou two hours by coach.